City With Two Souls

 

Bisceglie, a commercial city and agricultural hub, has been my stop for olive oil and taralli (a savory snack) for years. The harbor with its colorful flat-roof houses is one of the most charming in Puglia. Visiting one of its bars overlooking the water for coffee or a drink is a joy.

 

This year, I discovered Bisceglie’s medieval old town, a labyrinth of mysterious alleys, many of them no more than 1.5 m wide. An oasis of calm in such a busy city. One morning in June of 2024, a small construction site was the only source of noise around.

 

Worth seeing: an impressive castle dating back to different eras, a Romanesque cathedral, and a few ancient churches and palaces. Truly enchanting and such a contrast to the hustle and bustle of the surrounding city.

 

Do:

Get lost in the quiet alleys of the old town.
Visit the Cathedral of San Pietro (1295), or the Church of Sant’Adoeno (1074).
Taste the Sospiri desserts at Pasticceria Cattedrale, or have „un caffè" at Bar Cattedrale on Via Cardinale dell’Olio, 25. Both owned by the friendly Todisco family and famous.
Stroll along the old port and visit one of the coffee bars or pubs.
Visit one of the nearby beaches, stony, but the water very clear.
See the Chianca Dolmen, one of the best preserved grave-altars in Italy dating back to the Bronze Age, embedded in olive groves about 7 km from Bisceglie*.

 

*Please inform yourself about directions and local conditions.

 

Sleep:

Palazzo Bonomi Hotel: 4*, newly renovated, in the old town. Largo Castello, 7, 76011 Bisceglie.

 

Eat:

Bue Marino Restaurant + Wine Bar: fish, seafood, meat. Largo Castello, 8, 76011 Bisceglie BT.

Qui è Giusto: pizza. Small place near the Castello, open after 8 p.m. Via Cristoforo Colombo, 2.

Ristorante Pescandalo: seafood and fish. Piazza Plebiscito, 6, 76125 Trani BT, 9 km from Bisceglie. Please see my report  here.

 

Shop:

Olio Lamantea: very good olive oil, and big, crunchy taralli, handmade with extra virgin olive oil. Via Lancellotti, 8, 76011 Bisceglie.

Tel.: +39 080 964 8072. Please check for opening hours.

 

Good time to visit:

May, June, September and October, when temperatures are generally a bit lower and the city is not crowded.