TRANI, COASTAL TOWN IN PUGLIA
Trani:
A Fine Town For Foodies
Trani treats its visitors to the freshest local seafood, even more so than other cities I have seen in Puglia. The quality of the food is high and the number of restaurants serving excellent meals impressive.
The city and its beautiful marina attract a well-heeled clientele which in turn makes the restaurants flourish.
Interested in more than fabulous food? Trani boasts a stunning cathedral overlooking the sea, an impressive castle built by Frederick II, charming medieval streets, Jewish history, and a lovely beach, to name a few of the major attractions.
Culinary Delights:
Trani mainly means seafood. Locals often prefer it raw and order big platters of sliced octopus, squid, whole scampi and different types of clams simply served on ice. Many like to wash it down with an Italian sparkling wine, a fine combination. Chefs here keep surprising with delectable new seafood dishes, raw or cooked. Of course, some traditional restaurants offer grilled meats (also popular in Puglia), vegetable specialties, burrata and stracciatella cheese. But the core of Trani's cuisine is seafood and fish.
The city is well known for its Moscato di Trani DOC, one of Southern Italy's best dessert wines. Excellent olive oil is also produced nearby.
Risotto with sea urchin at Quintessénza Ristorante
Eat:
Ristorante Pescandalo, Piazza Plebiscito, near the harbor. Freshest fish and seafood
very well prepared. Popular with locals. Please see my report here.
Quintessénza Ristorante, next to the castle. Exquisite seafood interpretations with a
focus on local and Mediterranean cuisine. Refined contemporary interior at the new
location. Accomplished service. 1*Michelin and very much appreciated:
https://www.quintessenzaristorante.it
Osteria Frangipane, on the edge of the old town. Delicious and creative local cuisine:
https://osteriafrangipane.it
Le Lampare al Fortino, magnificent location inside a former church, splendid view from
the panoramic terrace over the marina and the old town. Delightful seafood dishes, plus
some meat. Chic: https://lelamparealfortino.it
Looking across the harbor towards Via Statuti Marittimi
Do:
Visit the majestic Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta built in the white local limestone and
consecrated in 1143. Admire its beautiful bronze doors and the Romanesque design.
Discover Frederick II's Castle and its quadrangular form. A museum, and open to the
public for performances.
Explore the well-maintained medieval historic center, its flat roof homes typical of Puglia, and the Scolanova Synagogue from 1240.
Do the “passeggiata”, the evening stroll, together with the Italians, great for people
watching, a quick chat with strangers, or stop for a drink at one of the many bars in the
marina.
Enjoy Colonna Beach, the small sandy city beach ideal for families. Just a 15 minute walk from the town center along Lungomare Cristoforo Colombo.
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta
Best Time To Enjoy Trani:
June and September are ideal for eating outside and not as crowded as July and August.
If you don't want the town to be packed during your visit, inform yourself about special
events going on, or choose the months of May or October.
Best days for a visit are Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays. Trani has become a party town and gets packed on weekends, including Sundays. Parking can be extremely difficult on those days after 5 p.m. Almost all restaurants are closed on Mondays.
Sleep:
Dimore Marinare, at the harbor. Stylish, privately run guest house. Beautifully
renovated, spacious rooms and showers, 4 suites overlook the marina. Spectacular view
at breakfast on the rooftop terrace. Elevator: https://dimoremarinare.com.
Le Dimore Di Don Corrado, small charming B&B overlooking the port and Piazza
Quercia. Elevator: Via S. Giorgio, 7. Tel.: +39 393 956 0006.
Villa Pietra Bianca, in a quiet residential neighborhood on the outskirts of Trani. Elegant,
comfortable, pool, gated parking. You need a car, 10 minutes drive to the harbor:
https://www.villapietrabianca.it.
Note:
There are many small B&Bs in the old town. Keep in mind that most do not have an
elevator and that there can be long staircases to climb with luggage. Also, inform yourself,
or contact your host about parking. It can be hard to find on certain days.
Shop:
Lula, near the train station. Excellent bread and desserts, coffee as well:
https://www.lulatrani.it
Enoteca Dell'Olio il Tempio Divino, wine shop in a residential neighborhood a few
minutes from the old town. Large selection of local wines. Very friendly and knowledgeable owner, deliveries. Also wines from other regions, plus excellent jams made from local fruits: Via Giovanni Falcone, 41. Tel.: +39 0883 487542.
Puglia Village, a fairly quiet, friendly outlet, 15 minutes south, next to the SS16 freeway.
Clothing, accessories, cosmetics, a cinema. The Bacio di Latte Restaurant is great for a quick lunch and serves good pizza, pasta, sandwiches, coffee and desserts:
www.pugliavillage.it.
Travel Date: October 2024
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