Favorite Food Town

Trani has a high concentration of very good osterias, excellent seafood restaurants*, fine dining in beautiful locations, plus 2 Michelin starred establishments. Delicious pizza, pasta or grilled meats are available in cozy places throughout the charming old town and near its picturesque harbor, too. Best days for a visit: Tuesdays, Wednesdays and possibly Thursdays. Weekends are very crowded with visitors and party-goers. On Mondays most restaurants are closed.

*Please see my review of Ristorante Pescandalo here.

Favorite Crowd-Free Town

Nestled on a hill top and just a few km from the southernmost point in Puglia, Specchia was voted one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. During my last visit one afternoon in late September of 2024, we were almost the only tourists there. What to see: the neat, mostly medieval center, Piazza del Popolo and Palazzo Risolo, a few historic churches, underground olive oil presses. Not to be missed: a visit of Gelateria/Café Martinucci and Pasticceria Mille Voglie, next to each other in the former castle. Both serve excellent products in very attractive settings (indoors and outside). 

Beautiful Beaches

Opinions on beaches vary widely in Puglia. I favor the sandy beaches around San Pietro in Bevagna or south of Gallipoli along the Ionian coast for swimming and sunbathing. The town beaches of Gallipoli, Santa Maria al Bagno and Otranto are all very picturesque. The public beach of Santa Maria di Leuca at the southernmost point of Puglia is truly special, because it is where the Adriatic and Ionian Seas meet.

See The Sunset

During sunset the village of Santa Maria al Bagno on the Ionian coast turns into a romantic seaside spot where people swim until late, or enjoy an aperitivo along its lovely promenade equipped with bars and restaurants. A bit further north, the harbor of Porto Cesareo turns orange when the sun goes down behind small fishing boats. The beach and town walls of Gallipoli change into a magical yellow during golden hour. Along the Adriatic the Cathedral in Trani shows off its entire beauty when its façade gets illuminated by a low sun.

Most Loved Town Square

Piazza Salandra in Nardò is loved by locals and tourists alike. Dotted with shops and cafés, it comes alive when the lights go on in the evening. Families with children, teenagers, older folks, foreigners, people looking to have a drink before dinner come out to enjoy the attractive baroque architecture of the square. It's fun to mingle with them before dinner in one of the small restaurants nearby.

Puglia's Unique Baroque Style

Baroque architecture in Puglia is more playful and joyful than in the north. My favorite example of this is the façade of Basilica di Santa Croce in Lecce, completed in 1695: richly decorated, beautiful in the evening sun and illuminated at night. A must see when visiting Lecce.

Favorite City

Lecce's unique baroque, roman amphitheater, its noble palaces, medieval castle, shady alleys, the inviting piazzas, there is a lot to discover. The city is so wonderful that it gets very crowded during summer months. My favorite time to visit is late September or early October when I can still eat outside, but the masses of tourists have moved on.

A Captivating Castle

Castel del Monte in northern Puglia is an impressive sight. Built by the remarkable Frederick II in the 1240's, this octagonal building is a different type of castle. The rooms empty, its architecture unique, its purpose a mystery. Today, the harmony of the proportions, its secretive past and the superb views over the green plains make this Unesco World Heritage Site a worthwhile place to visit. Avoid weekends, especially during summer months.